Microneedling and lactic acid, one is a popular treatment and the other is a popular ingredient in skincare. Since both offer impressive results, you wonder how or if you can combine them together. Before we get into that, let’s quickly review what lactic acid is and how microneedling works, hopefully that makes more sense and we can see who’s paying attention!
What is microneedling?
Microneedling uses tiny sterilized needles that help stimulate collagen production.
The needles are 0.5 to 2.5 in diameter and feel like light needles. They don’t penetrate too deep into the surface of the skin.
It can improve the appearance of scars caused by acne and minor superficial wounds.
Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles while helping to firm the skin.
Targets hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and sun-damaged areas.
Can be used all over the body, from skin to scalp to feet.
This minimally invasive treatment dates back to 1995 and has come a long way. With new technology and a slew of new skincare enthusiasts looking for their nearest doctor.
The results are immediate and will also ensure plumper, more youthful skin in the long term.
What is Lactic Acid?
A chemical peel that belongs to the class of alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs).
Derived from sour milk and developed synthetically for use in skincare.
Has a larger molecular size, which means it cannot penetrate the lower dermis and cause irritation and dryness.
Works on the outer surface, removing dead skin cells, bacteria, dirt and debris that can build up and cause breakouts, making your complexion look dull.
Has hydrating properties, which means it draws moisture into the skin and locks it into the skin barrier, strengthening it and protecting it from free radicals and other environmental aggressors.
If you want to learn more about lactic acid and its benefits for your skin, read our dedicated blog post.
Can lactic acid be used after microneedling?
Not really, while lactic acid is one of the gentlest forms of AHA, it should be applied to the skin after microneedling. This is because exfoliation is one of the main benefits of lactic acid and lactic acid can cause over-irritation. When the tiny needles roll over the skin during microneedling, the skin is stimulated to think that the surface has been damaged and it starts to produce collagen. While this can irritate the skin, it also temporarily weakens the skin, meaning anything applied to the skin will penetrate deeper into the skin. This can be a problem with products like acids, which become too strong and cause irritation and other unwanted side effects.
When can acids be used after microneedling?
Chemical peels and similar acids like glycolic and salicylic acid should be avoided for at least 2-3 days during the healing period after microneedling treatment. This prevents these peels from over-irritating the skin and causing redness, dryness, and irritation. You should also avoid other active ingredients like any form of retinoids, as this can cause negative side effects.
However, if the acid you are using is hyaluronic acid, you can apply it to the skin after the microneedling treatment is completed. Because although it is called an acid, HA works differently as it does not exfoliate the skin. Instead, it is known for its hydrating properties, making it a powerful ingredient as it locks in moisture, boosts collagen production, and hydrates the skin.
After 2-3 days, you can apply acid to your skin, but I recommend doing this after applying hyaluronic acid to avoid irritation. It is also very important to apply SPF 50 daily to protect your skin from UV rays.
What not to do after microneedling?
As I mentioned before, you should avoid using skin ingredients like retinol, AHA, BHA, and vitamin C after microneedling. You should also avoid using any strong perfumes as this can cause redness and increased sensitivity.
Many dermatologists recommend waiting at least 48 hours before applying makeup or cleansers to your skin. Before applying active ingredients, especially those as effective as retinol and vitamin C.
If you are concerned about what to apply to your skin after microneedling, I strongly recommend consulting your doctor, dermatologist, or the professional who performed the treatment.
What serum should you use after microneedling?
Hyaluronic acid is the best serum for microneedling. As I mentioned before, a clever moisturizer can provide impressive hydration without increasing the risk of skin sensitivity and adverse reactions.
Because HA can bind twice its molecular weight of water, the skin is moisturized. After the treatment, the surface of the skin looks plumper, younger, and the skin is soothed. After a microneedling treatment, the skin is often left tight and dry, which can cause a lot of discomfort and weaken the skin barrier if left alone. This makes the skin vulnerable to further damage and stimulates sebum production, which in turn leads to excess oil and negative effects such as frequent breakouts, skin problems, and complexion blemishes.
Can I use Vitamin C after microneedling?
No, actually not, because Vitamin C can cause skin irritation after microneedling. You'll find that the powerful energy source penetrates too deep into the dermis, causing increased sensitivity, severe dryness, irritation, redness, and a weakened skin barrier. In other words, your skin will become more damaged and existing damage will become more severe. As with the other acids mentioned, for best results and no side effects, wait 2-3 days after microneedling before using Vitamin C.
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